How to Recognise a Real Pearl

A real pearl is the only gem made by a living creature. It is never cut and never polished — it leaves the shell exactly as it will be worn. That is why no two are alike, and why an imitation, however flawless, never quite convinces.

What Makes a Pearl Real

A real pearl forms inside a mollusc, layer upon layer of nacre, over months and years. Natural pearls form by chance and are extraordinarily rare. Cultured pearls grow in the same way, in the same shell, with the process begun by hand. Both are real pearls.

An imitation is a bead — glass, plastic or shell — coated to resemble one. It has never been inside a shell.

Six Ways to Tell

01 — No two are alike

Look along the strand. You will find slight differences in size, in shape, in tone. Fine pearls are carefully matched, yet never identical. Imitations come from a single mould — and look it.

02 — The surface

Under the light, a real pearl shows fine growth marks and a sense of depth. An imitation is flat and perfect, like a coat of paint.

03 — The lustre

With a real pearl the light seems to come from within: a sharp reflection, surrounded by a soft glow. With an imitation the shine sits on the surface, like glass.

04 — The touch

A real pearl feels cool when you first pick it up and warms slowly against the skin. Plastic imitations feel light, and warm from the start.

05 — The tooth test

Rub the pearl gently along the edge of a front tooth. A real pearl feels faintly gritty, like fine sand. An imitation glides, perfectly smooth. Jewellers have trusted this test for generations.

06 — The drill hole

Look at the hole where the thread passes. On a real pearl the edges are clean and sharp. On an imitation the coating is often chipped or peeling around it, with the bead visible beneath.

Why It Matters

The nacre of a real pearl holds its lustre for decades when cared for. The coating of an imitation wears, peels and yellows. A real pearl is passed on. An imitation is replaced.

Pearls at Alison Mariot

Every pearl we set is real — chosen one by one, and finished in 18K gold vermeil at 3 microns. Look closely at any of our pieces and you will see it: no two pearls the same.

Discover the MERAKI collection

Caring for Pearls

• Last on, first off. Put your pearls on after perfume, cosmetics and hairspray.
• Wipe them with a soft, dry cloth after each wear.
• Keep them away from water, chlorine and heat.
• Store them apart, in their pouch, so nothing can scratch them.

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A real pearl is never perfect. That is how you know.